Biologique Recherche is all about Skin Instants - which begs the question, is there only one P50 variant that is right for me? I would say generally no as skin undergoes changes every day. There are probably 2 or even 3 variants suitable for you. Absolutely no shame having your favorite variants on your vanity top - use it to treat different skin instants.
1. Lotion P50 - the closest in formulation to the original P50 1970 variant, which because of the controversial ingredient "Phenol", is only available in the U.S. The concern with Phenol is its corrosive nature; and because it absorbs into skin quickly, it can cause skin toxicity and caustic burns. The truth is, you probably need quite a large concentration to get this negative effect but this is the reason why 1970 is restricted in so many countries worldwide. P50 contains a pH level of 3.5; this is probably too harsh (i.e. it may "bite" upon application) for majority of Asian skins, which tends to be more delicate and thin. More ideal for skins which are thicker and more prone to oily tendencies (which exhibit pH levels of 1 - 4.0). Contains AHA 6.1%, BHA 0.35%, PHA 5%.
2. Lotion P50T and Lotion P50 pigm400 - both have a pH of 4.0 which is why it is a great choice for mild to moderate sensitive skins (dry, sensitive skins tend to hover around pH of 6-9). Pigm400 variant has the added benefit of brightening complexion and reducing and inhibiting melanin formation. Works well for us in sunny Singapore! Both are inter-changeable in my opinion. If you feel that either does not give you that BR glow (it's REAL - see photo for proof - wit h nothing other than P50T) that everyone seems to be talking about and if you have no reactions from either formulations, you could try the stronger P50.
Both these variants are 100% pregnancy safe!
Generally speaking, the stronger acids in P50 accelerate the effects of the glow and radiance that comes with a committed P50 relationship. So, if your skin can "take" to the P50 formulation, then go for it. But, please don't force it. You don't need to - go with the variant that is not harsh or "biting" over a longer term basis.
3. Lotion P50W - formulated specially for extra sensitive skins. Although at a pH of also 3.5, the extra comforting ingredients (Arnica extracts) slowly regulates / retards the delivery of active ingredients to skin so as to prevent a reaction. If your skin is accustomed to this without any problems or if you want to try something stronger, consider moving to P50 pigm400 or P50T.
Contains AHA 3.39%, BHA 0.25% and PHA 5% - so not as strong as P50 but still does the job for sensitive skins.
Note if skin is hyper-sensitive (i.e. extreme sensitivity to any physical substance or environmental changes), then this gentlest variant may still be too strong for you. In this instance, opt for Eau Micellaire Biosensible - it is formulated for extra sensitive skins that cannot accept anything else; and yet gives that similar French polished effect that P50 gives.
4. Lotion P50V - formulated for extra dry skins or if you routinely travel (and exposed to harsh air conditioning / heating systems in the hotel room), this is an excellent choice. With a pH of also 3.5, this provides extra vitamins and moisture so you get that signature BR glow minus the dehydration (which can happen with P50). Feels like an extra (thin) film of moisture on top of the epidermis. No tightness experienced. For women undergoing menopause and when skin is extra dry, this could be a good alternative to your regular P50 regime.
Contains AHA 4.34%, BHA 0.26%, PHA 5%.