Probably one of the most asked questions I get is "Which P50 should I choose"? There's a reason why Biologique Recherche has developed 6 variants, because having the perfect match means it's going to work its magic right on pointe.
So, back to the question... and before we answer it, you need to know your skin instant or skin condition. And as a summary, we created a super-easy to follow guide right at the end.
As elusive and exclusive is this "facial in a bottle" is, I can assure you that it is not quite difficult to find that magic variant(s). Here's what to look out for:
1. Get the right variant for your skin.
Speak to us if you are unsure but don't get hung up on the "original" 1970 or P50 version just because it has been written and talked about by celebrities, beauty influencers or even your best friend. The fact that we have 6 variants globally is telling that P50 was not created as a one-size-fits-all lotion. Getting that right variant can ease the triple blend of acids to the skin so much more effortlessly, without dealing with associated effects of harshness, skin redness, irritation etc. My skin does the best on PIGM400 or V. P50 itself renders it too dry for my liking and T & W a little "mild". Hopefully this 101 guide helps you navigate through finding Mr Right :)
2. Understand what P50 does.
This is NOT your regular toner - toners simply eliminate residual dust & dirt on your skin after cleansing. The functions of P50 go far beyond that. Think of it as a safe & daily exfoliating treatment that restores skin from the abyss of dullness to that glorious state of glowing sheen, over 50 days (i.e. 2 epidermal cycles).
ALL variants contain the same blend of actives BUT in varying proportions. AHA & BHA are considered siblings and are time-tested exfoliants. AHA is mainly derived from fruits and milk and BHA is salicylic acid, a plant derived ingredient. These acids loosen the bonds that dull skin so they shed more expediently and create a natural "pathway" for the ingredients in serums and cremes to penetrate skin much better.
PHA are humectants that attract moisture to skin, anti-inflammatory and gently slough off the top layers of skin. Consider this a "cousin" to AHA & BHA.
3. What is a normal reaction when applying P50?
If you are an acids "virgin", then picking even the gentlest of P50 formulations may give you some skin sensation, which can range from mild redness, tingling, slight flakiness, red blemishes, itch etc. These reactions reveal an epidermal imbalance. Reactions can last for a couple of days as skin acclimatizes to the acids.
We therefore advice clients to start off P50 on a watered-down version, once a day - simply wet a cotton pad with water, drop a few drops of P50 and press, dab, hold in an upward motion. Applying it with no pressure like a regular toner is not doing this treatment its needed justice. A hint of pressure will stimulate skin as it should be, keeping it clear, uncongested, as healthy skin should be.
Over time, step up to using it twice a day and eventually, use it "neat". Any common skin sensations should go away in a couple of minutes and eventually, reduce to none at all, with just a tinge of healthy "pink" hue that follows on.
That's why using the RIGHT variant makes all that difference. If your skin is sensitive, starting off with the original P50 is not going to give you any pleasure at all and you might be dealing with irritated skin that is dry and flaking. Whereas using P50T is going to give you just that right dose of exfoliation which does not leave skin feeling raw and irritated.
4. Indeed, Biologique Recherche P50 is a magic lotion for many of us
BUT I do think that its benefits are heightened when one's skincare routine is made up of at least 50% & ideally 90% Biologique Recherche products. P50 was created with the philosophy & understanding of how the rest of the products work together; a core step to prepare one's skin for the rest of the products; a pillar of the BR epidermis reconditioning method.
It brings out the best in the BR repertoire of 100+ products. Paves the way for its water-based serums (not so much a gel masque or serum) to soak right into skin and work its magic, accentuating every bit of its pure & unadulterated goodness.
Granted, some start off with the brand with P50 and as it gives you that teaser & glimpse of how great your skin can be, it's quite natural for anyone to get more drawn into this mystical world of bespoke potions, cremes, lotions that changes your skin from within to treat your skin instant.
5. Is there anything stronger than the original P50?
Unless you are living in the US where you can get your hands on the 1970 version, the answer is probably no if we were to just consider the P50 variants. Hope floats for those of us not in the US and that hope lies in Lotion MC 110.
I call it an intensified exfoliation treatment. It purifies, exfoliates and stimulates all epidermal functions while toning the skin. A great addition if for bouts of acne or breakouts. Fine lines are instantly plumped up and skin a brighter, more youthful glow. Use this for a period of 7 to 10 days in place or after your P50 lotion, depending on how your skin reacts to the lotion.
P50 CHEAT SHEET — SELECT THE RIGHT PRODUCT FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE:
Lotion P50 | Lotion P50T | Lotion P50 PIGM400 | Lotion P50V | Lotion P50W
